If you have a mill with a DRO, an alternative is to set up the part with the details parellel with the table and dial in each feature here you can work to the limitations of the DRO (usually O.0005" +/- one count) and the machine (depending on its condition).
PRINTLIFE DIAMETER OF DVD CENTER HOLE SOFTWARE
Present day computers and spreadsheet software makes recording and messaging data a piece of cake. It's a lot of work but you can get 0.002" accuracy quite readily. Rotate the part 90 degrees and do the same for the ordinates in the other direction. Massage the data to convert from top of radius to vertical centerline and raw height gage reading to feature reference grid. Make up a detailed sketch, clamp the part square on a surface plate then indicate with a height gage off screw bodies, pins etc to get all the ordinates and references. Or to make a drawing, you can do it the pre-CMM way. If you have untapped holes and passages make some transfer punches (shouldered punches snug in the hole with a sholder and a short C/punch concentric with the stub on the opp side). Is this a part at a time or is it for production parts? If for one part I suggest using transfer screws to go from existing tapped holes to the new part, enlarging the indentation with a punch (or scope drilling them depeending on your equipment) and drilling them. there are many permutations of this and other processes to get holes in accurately.ĬMM's are cool but before we had them we did it old style. Big on the look but light on weight, these decorative ceiling medallions are precision cast using durable polymers that are non-shrinking and 100 waterproof. This ceiling medallion features a rich raised texture floral center panel. It was slow,and supplanted by the advent of accurate jig bores. A center hole is provided for easy installation of the ceiling molding with chandeliers and fans. This is how they made plates for clocks and pocket watches. The piece to be made was bolted to the master,and holes drilled and then bored from the locating pin behind the master plate being brought into sucessive holes.
Then,the master plate could be bolted to a faceplate that had a well fitted plug in its center. If the holes were too small to use buttons on,a dummy master plate could be made up using larger holes than the finished piece. The first hole served as a reference point to put gauge blocks to other holes from. If there was no convenient edge to place upon a surface plate,the part could be mounted on a faceplate and the gauge blocks could be stacked up from a parallel placed square on the lathe bed. Then,the button was centered on a faceplate,or under a mill spindle,and drilled,then single point bored out. Then,the part was rotated 90 deg.,and the process repeated and so forth till the hole was located in both directions.
The part was placed vertically onto a surface plate,and gauge blocks were stacked up under the button to the distance from the reference edge they wanted it to be.The button was adjusted till it bore against the gauge blocks. Then a hollow,short steel tube with a thick washer on top was screwed down over the hole. The holes had to be large enough to allow an undersize hole to be centerpunched in and drilled and tapped in as close to position as possible with scribe lines.
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